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Valparaiso

Valparaiso
February 20-22, 2003

Valparaiso is an old town that has seen better days - but loaded with quirky character. It is said to be one of Chile's most unique and interesting cities, and I agree. The town was built higgledy-piggeldy on the steep hills surrounding a circular bay - one of the best natural harbors in Pacific South America, and once a very important stop for whalers, gold miners and other traffic going "round the horn." Today, although its economic importance has faded, its vibrancy, quirky architecture and interesting inhabitants remain.

 

The streets are chaotic and filled with unusual houses painted in vibrant colors. This one is a couple of blocks from the guesthouse where I stayed.
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A good way to get an overview of the city layout is on a boat ride with a captain like this one.
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This blurry picture shows a typical neighborhood going up the hills.
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Another view of the harbor.
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Dozens of rickety "Acensors", or funicular railways, built in the victorian times are still functioning and will give you a lift up the hills to the city's neighborhoods for around ten cents.
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A typical hillside neighborhood.
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One of the original houses, now restored as a b&b.
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The beach at Viña del Mar, a popular resort town near Valparaiso.
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A nearby vineyard. The landscape in this part of Chile very much resembles California.
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The house of Pablo Neruda, Chile's most famous poet, at Isla Negra, a small town about an hour south of Valparaiso.
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Pablo and his friends used to drink cocktails in this boat.
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The beach at Isla Negra.
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There was a party going on at my guesthouse - the owner's college-age sons were in town!
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Lots of fun was had that night. I almost missed my bus to the Santiago airport the next day. But that wouldn't have been so bad, after all.
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Copyright © 2003-2005 John Foley